Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these stories and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
